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I woke up today to a phone call hearing an excited caller announcing “Today is the
day!!” Of course, the caller was referencing that I'd be eating Key Lime pie
today!
As I went through the pre-departure steps of loading the bike, cleaning the
windscreen and lights, reconnecting electronics, checking/adjusting tire pressures,
talking to whatever local happened to be nearby, etc., my level of enthusiasm was
no different than any other day during the morning ritual. This will come as
no surprise to those who know me personally and my philosophy about riding, er, living.
I called my friend to confirm our plans. He said someone in his riding group
who was familiar with my location said “taking A1A would take about the same time
as the interstate” to our planned meeting point. Given my experience yesterday
on A1A I found this to be odd but certainly welcomed the news and so headed out on a
clear and quite toasty (um, hot!) Sunday late morning. I passed the location of
today's sign award which goes to a local jewelry store picturing a large multi diamond
ring and said “Sometimes it's OK to throw rocks at girls.”
Once on A1A it was back to stop and go, “see-and-be-seen” drivers, and a myriad of
bikers of the cruiser and sportbike variety. At one stoplight I pulled up behind
at least 2 dozen motorcycles and wondered if my mileage total at the end of the calendar
year would exceed all theirs combined. At another stoplight I saw the squid of all
squids - no, not a squid from the nearby ocean either! There he was on a shiny
Hayabusa, one of the fastest production bikes available. His, um, “gear” included
wetsuit shorts and sunglasses. No helmet. No shirt. Choice of footwear: flip
floppish looking sandals. So, he sat on one side of the red light, totally consumed
in the external “look at me” world, and I sat on the other side, fully geared from head
to toe and couldn't give a rat's ass about attention or someone's opinion. What a
contrast, huh? I saw him pull into a parking lot and thought maybe I could get a
picture together with him (“AGirl & the Squid” perhaps?), but, alas, by the time I turned
around and came back all I saw was the parked bike. Geez, would I have liked to have that photo!
After multiple stoplights and trying to wade through traffic, mostly moving at
“hey-look-at-me” speed, I decided to forfeit the A1A “experience” in favor of the
interstate. While making my way to I-95 I took a road that ran beside a golf
course. While waiting at a painfully long stoplight and before turning onto this road
I noticed a man taking many practice swings before teeing off. He seemed very serious
and absorbed in his moment with the white ball. The light turned green and I proceeded
beside the course. It just so happened that I was very near him as he was about to hit
the ball and, well, I simply couldn't resist... I laid on the air horn. (Hey, I was just doing
a morning sound check you know.) There are no words in the English language that would
adequately describe his “response,” but I'll say that I had to stop a mile or so afterwards
so I could wipe the tears from my eyes because I was laughing so hard. Oh, I love this horn!
I think my top speed on A1A was than 30mph. (By the way, no one could tell me what "A1A"
stood for). When I entered I-95 a car passed me doing at least 130mph. Rabbits were
everywhere so I quickly arrived to meet my friend. Just before meeting him I stopped to
refuel (something I think I might qualify as an expert at doing) and while at the station man
walked over to me while I was filling up and asked what kind of Suzuki was I riding. While
I was answering him he was walking around the bike and noticed the “AZ” tag and said “Damn, are
you one of those test riders or something?!”
Despite my answer of “No” he was convinced that I indeed was a test rider on an
"unreleased bike". Geez, the things people come up with! Speaking of test riders, I
often wonder how much real world testing goes into gear... hmm, maybe the problem is I have more
miles than the riders who are testing the new gear?
I finally met my friend and was introduced to members of his local club who seemed very intrigued
with my riding and were quite interested in gear, parts, farkles, etc., that I use. The
experience was another reminder that a motorcycle is not only a mode of transportation but also a
means to connect with others and maybe others that you otherwise may not have crossed paths. This
is an aspect of motorcycling that I really, really enjoy.
There was a small rain cell looming just west of our location so my friend and I bid the group
farewell and headed towards Key West with a quick stop to pick up his SO who would be driving a
cage to Key West. After paying 2 quick tolls we were on our way down Hwy 1. Once on
the infamous Hwy 1 there was a large sign that said “Drive Carefully, 16 fatalities this year”
then staggered signs that read “Patience Pays Only 5 Miles To Passing Lane” then one that said
the same thing but “Only 2 Miles.” I find these types of signs to be alarming since what
they really communicate is that the drivers in the area are dangerously impatient, impulsive,
and don't make wise decisions. Personally I think these type of signs also say that area
law enforcement are, for whatever reasons, unable to “serve and protect” adequately. Increase
patrol, lower speed limits, create double yellow lines, higher fines... hell, do something other
than erect signs reporting a cumulative death toll and pleas to be patient!
The traffic coming northbound from the Keys was at least five, maybe even ten, times what it
was going our southbound direction. Seeing this sight I was very glad that Key West
marked the conclusion of being on the Four Corner clock. I'd really hate to be on the
clock both directions. As we approached the famous “Seven Mile Bridge” there was a large
boat in a parking lot named “Redneck Rocketship” and if that wasn't enough there was a pole or
something sticking out the back of the boat which was marked not with a red flag but a red
baseball cap on the end! Hey, gotta hand it to Capt Bubba for being creative!
We pulled over just before the bridge so I could take a photo of it (which didn't turn
out). While we were parked I saw people fishing and went down to ask what they were
catching. Turns out one of the guys had a gimp pole which I was able to repair with a
zip tie. I've decided you really only need zip ties, duct tape, and WD-40 to fix things.
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This is going over the bridge:
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I was very surprised to pass deer warning signs then a sign stating we were in the
National Key Deer Refuge. I've been to Key West several times and I didn't
recall seeing these signs as a youngster. I have to say it was very odd to
be looking at the beach and ocean and be concerned with deer jumping out in front
of you!
Apparently they do have a real problem with Bambi dancing in the street since
the speed limit drops to a posted 30mph at night.
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As we pulled into Key West I didn't see a “welcome sign” anywhere but I did see
that apparently those with access to my tracking could see I had crossed into
the city limits since the messages on my cell phone started to accumulate
rapidly. We stop at Key West High School so I could take the 4th and
final official photo with the gargantuan size Polaroid camera but the sun was
so bright that the camera was not able to pick up my license plate in the
photo. We decided to head over to perhaps the most well known and
definitely most colorful landmark, the “Southernmost Point” buoy:
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I took a photo of my GPS at the beginning of this ride at the San Ysidro, CA PostOffice (remember James?). Here's
what the GPS looks like having arrived Key West:
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While I was looking at this buoy and out into the ocean thinking about the last 7,780
miles I heard a “pop” beside my bike. My next thought was this wouldn't be a bad
place to be stranded. Much to my surprise the popping sound was my friend opening
a bottle of champagne! Here's a guy who I've never met personally (just through
the V-Strom forum) but has really been riding the entire lap around the US (oh, and in
Canada) with me and is very enthused being a part of this journey. Based on the
emails I have received he is not alone in celebration. The support and well wishes
are greatly appreciated and I am deeply humbled by the outpouring of support; I feel
privileged that so many “virtual riders” joined me on the journey. Simply stated,
***THANK YOU!!!***
According to a mapping program, the most direct route going from San Ysidro,
CA to Blaine, WA to Madawaska, ME to Key West, FL covers 6,850 miles. The
“AGirl route” covered 7,780 which is nearly 1000 miles further. At the start
of this ride I stated I was going to ride Scenic Byways, collect National Park
stamps, visit with folks along the way... and I did just that....
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Despite what this sign says....
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....but Key West is just a via point, not an destination, for me. My arrival was
really no different from any of the other places I have visited and certainly didn't
have a “crossed the finish line” feel for me. You may have noticed I don't use
the word “trip” rather opting for “journey” instead. The word “trip” to me connotes
a beginning and an end and, for me, it's just one continuous journey. You need not
look far in my other journey reports for proof. Now, as far as collecting stamps
for my National Park Passport book, the tally during the ride is 39 stamps in 21 locations
in 13 different states (remember the DC jackpot?!). Here's a recap:
McLoughlin House NHS - Oregon City, OR
Oregon Nat'l Historic Trail - Oregon City, OR
Lewis and Clark Nat'l Historic Trail - Vancouver, WA
Fort Vancouver NHS - Vancouver, WA
Grant-Kohrs Ranch NHS - Deer Lodge, MT
Theodore Roosevelt Nat'l Park - Meddora, ND
Voyageurs NP (east) - Kabetogama,MN
Voyageurs NP (south) - Ash River,MN
Apostle Islands Nat'l Lakeshore, Lake Superior - Bayfield, WI
Pictured Rocks Nat'l Lakeshore -Munising/Grand Marais, MI
Acadia Nat'l Park - Bar Harbor, ME
National Mall & Memorial Parks - Washington, DC (*19 stamps total)
Wright Brothers Nat'l Mem - Kill Devil Hills, NC
Cape Hatteras Nat'l Seashore - all 3 locations of Nags Head, Buxton, & Ocracoke, NC
Cumberland Island Nat'l Seashore - Saint Marys, GA
Timucuan Ecological & Historic Preserve - Jacksonville, FL
Kingsley Plantation - Cedar Point, FL
Ribault VC - Fort George Island, FL
Fort Caroline Nat'l Mem - Beacon Hills, FL
.....Not bad considering I only started planning a grand total of 5 days before departure, huh?
By now it's probably obvious that I'm a little different from most people; the biggest
difference being my perspective. I live with the understanding that I only have
so much time to live; what I do (or don't do), how I think & feel, and how I interact
with the world around me is influenced by this fact. With this “there is only so
much time” perspective in mind maybe it makes more sense why I stopped for the mama bear
and cubs in Shenandoah National Park, or rode South Dakota alone in sheer darkness (both
earlier this year), or why and how I ran the Four Corner route. If someone told YOU
that you only had so much time to live what would be different in your life? Would
where or how or when you ride change? Would the amount of time you spend watching
tv or movies change? Would you watch them at all? Would there be a shift in
the things that got you upset if you lived knowing that you only had so many days, weeks,
months to live? What would become important or unimportant in your life? Would
you stop and “smell the roses” more? Would your “stress” list or your “goal” list
change? Would how you interact with people – strangers and friends alike –
change? Really, what if someone told you that you only had so much time to
live? Well, I'm telling you. No matter who you are or what you believe or what
values or morals you have or what motorcycle you do or don't ride there is a truth as
bright as the sun… and that is the amount of time you have left to live is
diminishing. The vast, vast majority of people live in an illusion and walk around
in a catatonic state as if there is a guarantee of another breathe, another day, another
year. One of the saddest things I hear is the phrase “when I retire.” Sure,
plan for tomorrow, but live now. Besides, I'd bet no one has ever said from their
death bed "I wish I'd spent more time at the office."
There really is only so much time.... I hope you too SEIZE THE JOURNEY!
AGirl
p.s. While in Key West I've been able to do the two most important things... eat Key Lime
pie and fish. Here are a few other photos I've taken during my stay in the Conch Republic:
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Remember Kevin and his Key West "Lucky Too" that I met in Michigan? Check it out..
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The Matriarch (earlier this summer)
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Final Webmaster Note Regarding the 4-Corners Tour .....
I feel honored and privileged to have been able to follow AGirl from one side of this country,
across the south of Canada, and back down the other side. My records include 775 GPS waypoints,
taken about 10 minutes apart, and there are several complete days missing where she didn't
have cell phone coverage. She is a special lady and someone I'm honored to call a
friend. I've followed her around on a bike through numerous backroads of Tennessee,
and every time I come home from riding a couple of hundred miles, and want to do nothing more
than crash for the rest of the day, I'm amazed at her tenacity and abilities. I do know
that riding nearly 8,000 miles in 18 days is something that I could not do, and I admire her
all the more for being able to accomplish it.
From all of us "Virtual Riders" thanks for letting us be a part of the journey. I hope
you had as much fun riding it as we did watching.
I am, however, hacked off that she stole my scooter smiley!
She has the black bike, I have the red one!
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