June 21, 2007 - Santa Barbara, CA to Half Moon Bay, CA



  There's something about waking up to the sound of breaking ocean waves and seagulls squawking at whatever seagulls squawk about in the morning.  It's been a while since I awoke to Mother Nature's diverse roar..  Before leaving camp, I set off to explore a large rock across the campground hoping I could find a way to climb it and then look back and get a photo of camp.  I indeed found a way up the rock, so here's where I slept last night:

And here's my “Free Spirit Salute” to the new day from atop the rock:

The free spirit salute came about recently when I visited the Barber Motorsports Motorcycle Museum in Birmingham, AL with my friend Scott (that Journey Report is:  HERE).  Outside the museum were statues that I couldn't exactly figure out in context to the museum, and I remember thinking I'd bet their creator was definitely a free spirit.  Scott happened to get a photo of me with these statues and since then it's been called the “Free Spirit Salute”:

  Salutations aside, I had a great walk along the ridge overlooking the ocean.  Though my thoughts were as wide and deep as the ocean in front of me, there was an undercurrent of anticipation for getting back on the road since I knew what was in front of me today: California's spectacular Highway 1 (CA-1) aka “Pacific Coast Highway” or simply “PCH”.  Before leaving the state park campground, I pulled the bike up by the Ranger's shack away from the campsites so I could run my air compressor and add air to my tires.  While checking tire pressures, a man walked by me and said with great surprise “Are you really from Tennessee?”.  I thought he might laugh or smile or something but after he didn't, it appeared he wanted an answer to his question.  I thought a/b saying no, I stole the bike, but decided to just say “yessiree”, and even then he still seemed confused.  I didn't know if he was having trouble processing that my license plate read “Tennessee” or “A Girl”, or maybe a combination of both.  He seemed rather dazed with my response and I didn't say anything else since I thought if I had added “and I'm on my way to Alaska” he might have passed out or something.  I'd be willing to bet the poor guy must have a limited view of what is “normal” or “average” given the difficulty he was apparently having processing that a female was riding a motorcycle solo across the country.  His question and response, or lack thereof, made me wonder what his life experiences have been.

  By the way, the GPS waypoints for the Refugio Beach State Campground is: N34 27.901 W120 04.090 (El Capitan Campground is less than a mile south)

I was on PCH in less than a minute after leaving the campground.  I've literally ridden all over this country in the extreme corners and along the coastal edges, and for me Hwy 1 is the king of all roads for it's combination of landscape/topography and fantastic motorcycle riding.  I entered the road with the Pacific Ocean to my left (or south, depending on how your brain works) and I stayed right beside it almost the entire day sans a detour for a quick canyon run.  One section of Hwy 1 above Santa Barbara runs through agricultural areas.  I looked out across one of the fields and saw this:

Regardless of your stance on migrant workers and immigration, those are people who are trying to survive.  I wondered how many American teenagers would go out there and do that type of work, and I concluded that if Border Patrol or Immigration were to make a round up then we'd all be paying $10 for a head of lettuce.

Rolling along this inland section of PCH-1, I came upon an unsuspecting sportbike rider who for whatever reason, was riding below the speed limit.  I'm not sure if his reaction was from just being passed or from being passed by a bike with a tag reading “AGIRL” (or both) but as soon as I zipped by, he responded as if the race was on.  (This scenario is not uncommon I might add).  I always let “Ricky Racer” pass me (keep the idiots in front is my motto), and I back down just enough so that he still believes the race is on and essentially becomes my rabbit.  This strategy has worked well in managing those with testosterone issues (ahem, did I mention I've had ZERO lifetime tickets?!)  Today when my radar detector alerted a signal ahead of us, I wondered what the conversation might entail between the LEO (Law Enforcement Officer) and Ricky once the rabbit was caught in the trap.  When I got the radar hit, I immediately backed way off and thought since I saw a sign designating Hwy 1 that'd I'd just pull over to take a photo.  Ricky Racer zoomed ahead likely not realizing I had dropped out.  Here's my photo (laughing not pictured):

After taking the pic, I walked around, ate something, and made a few phone calls.  Once I was back on the road, lo and behold, I see Ricky riding towards me.  I'm assuming his previous 20 minutes didn't go too well given Ricky's single digit gesture towards me as he passed by.  I didn't really understand since when I rode by the officer, he smiled at me.    Perhaps Mr. LEO told Ricky he should never race “a girl”?  I dunno, just a guess. 

I took one detour off Hwy 1 so I could run a canyon road called “Harris Grade”.  (GPS coordinates for the southern end of Harris Grade: N34 40.703 W120 27.347 and GPS coordinates for the northern end that intersects CA-135: N34 45.984 W120 25.441)  Last time I was on this particular road it was being repaved, so I suspected it might be in fine shape for a lone rider mid-week and mid-day.  Sure enough, I didn't see another vehicle and the road construction was complete.  Due to the lack of turn-outs it was difficult to get a photo representing the road, but here's a sample...

Nearing Cambria, Hwy 1 rejoins the coastline:

  Just before the Hearst Castle I pulled off to find a spot to eat my lunch alongside the ocean.  I found a place to park, backed the bike in, and as soon as I turned it off, a ground squirrel or some beach varmint creature runs under the bike and starts making circles around my boot.  I didn't know if it was rabid or hungry so I just watched it, all the while wondering if my Sidi boots are varmint bite-proof:

Here's where I had my lunch under the watchful eye of my critter friend and several of his cousins:

Just past the entrance to the Hearst Castle was a pullout that I decided to take since it appeared I could walk along the edge of the ocean for quite a distance.  I took this photo before I started my walk:

... and while walking I noticed some of the “rocks” in the ocean appeared to be moving.  Upon closer inspection, indeed they were... in the form of Elephant Seals:

I do my best thinking when my body is in motion.  My preference over the 38 years of my existence has been for that motion to be self-propelled, but due to a Achilles tendon rupture (actually twice  ) a few years ago, that preference has shifted to motorized two wheels.  Nonetheless, my cognitive experience seems to reflect a combination of the type of road I'm on and the external stimulus/scenery around me.  Yesterday's ride through the desert was one of those times where I hit the cruise physically and mentally, and let my mind wander about.  Today's ride was the exact opposite; I was very much in the moment and soaking up every breathe of fresh oceanside air, every view and every turn that the glorious Highway 1 offers!  Though I've been on this road countless times, each time is simply grand! 

At one of the pullouts a elderly gentleman from Italy approached me and asked “Do you want me to take a memory of you with your camera?”:

After the photo op, he asked where I was headed (actually, he said “Where might your destination be?”) and when I answered “Alaska” he erupted with “Bravo!!  Take many memories, young lady, for those of us who are too old to make the journey!”.  I gave him my card and invited him to be a virtual co-rider.  Something tells me I'll have an email from Italy before I get back.

Regardless of the chosen mode of transportation, if this road doesn't stir a person's soul then they need to be checked for a pulse!  Doesn't matter how many times I've ridden this road, it's always a treat!  Here are the photos from today's ride:

While riding today I noticed the front tire of the bike felt rather wonky.    Tire pressure checked out fine, but then I noticed the wheel weights had apparently taken flight at some point along the way.  (Maybe that Sidewinder snake took them off yesterday??  Heck, they probably melted off in the intense desert heat!)  In Monterey I had the wheel rebalanced, weights replaced, and I was quickly on my way again:

Just to reiterate, the bike is JUST FINE. 

  Rebalanced, back on Hwy 1 and heading for Half Moon Bay:

For the second night in a row I have arrived at my chosen campground and been very relieved to have made reservations for a site given the “Camground Full” sign displayed at the entrance.  I'm sure there are people who go into campgrounds after hours and camp illegally and all sorts of such, but I prefer to have a restful night knowing Ranger Rick won't be knocking on my tent door.  Anyway, tonight's campsite here in Half Moon Bay rivals last night's beach front site in Santa Barbara, though the waves and ocean are much louder here.  I'm trying to remember to take a photo of each campsite to help demarcate events for me sequentially.  Plus, the Matriarch really seems to enjoy seeing where I've camped.  So, here's tonight's camp...

I watched the sun set as I walked along the beach, and thought about how big this world is, and how thankful I am to be alive and experiencing a small part of it: 

AGirl

  End of day's GPS, reflecting 323 miles covered, and 899 cumulative miles thus far for this Alaska 2007 journey:

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