| July 17, 2007 - Denali Highway |
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I had extra company while repacking my motorcycle this morning outside the Talkeetna Hostel
thanks to “Nova” and her younger brother “Vega”. The Star kids were quite starry-eyed
with my bike to say the least. Nova insisted she park her bike next to mine (“I'm uh
girl too!!”) while Vega wanted a simultaneous and detailed explanation about my gloves
(“Aren't these are Spider Man's gloves??”). I tried to explain to Nova that the “A GIRL”
on my license plate was my nickname and the letter “A” represented the first letter of my
name. I don't think she ever understood it was “A GIRL” and not “UH GIRL” since after
I suggested taking a photo of them she announced to her brother: “Since I am a girl too I
should be beside the bike!”. My joint photo idea was agreeable after I suggested each
wear one of the Spider Man gloves:
I left Talkeetna heading back north so I could run the 135 mile unpaved and super scenic
“Denali Highway.” Since yesterday I had ridden from Fairbanks to Wasilla then back
up to the designated “Denali South Viewpoint” parking area, it was the forth time I had
been on that stretch of road. Denali is only visible 30% of the time and I have had
two days of wonderfully clear views since arriving AK. I stopped again at the viewpoint
today and this was what I saw:
... compared to the exact same place yesterday:
Geez, am I lucky or what?! While taking the photo today, a woman walked up and said
her and her husband had been up by the main Visitor Center yesterday and had not seen Denali
there either. I said I had been at the VC yesterday too but that I had come south and
was awarded with incredible views. I had downloaded the photos last night to my iPod
and showed her what she had missed by taking the shuttle bus into the park.
During 100 miles back to the turnoff to Denali Highway I reflected on what I had seen yesterday
that was invisible today. I also became a little concerned about my plans to tackle the
135 unpaved miles given the clouds that were forming and light rain that started to fall:
Rain or not, I thought this was quite neat:
As I have learned during my time here in Alaska, the weather changes VERY fast. You
can frequently be riding in funky weather but see bright sun and blue sky up ahead. I
took that photo above facing east, then turned north (the direction I was heading) and took this one:
There is a gas station right at the turnoff to the Denali Highway where most people probably
refuel and reload before starting the 135 mile trek where there is absolutely no services,
no rest areas, no houses, no nothing. When I was going inside to pay for my gas I saw a
handwritten sign on the door that said “Denali Highway CLOSURE today for construction”. Given
I didn't seen any official signs on the road while riding up to the turnoff nor had I heard from
anyone about a closure, this sign came as a shock. Inside the little store I overheard
RV'ers discussing their “revised plans” and was feeling a bit confused. I asked the lady
behind the counter about the sign. English was not her first language and I gathered that
she had been the one to write the note on the door. I just couldn't believe that the Dept
of Transportation would fail to provide a more official notice or signage on the main road. I
also believed that the lady might have misunderstood or mistranslated information. Given
all this, my guess was there might be temporary closures or delays but that the entire road was
shut down. I knew there hadn't been any major weather events over the past few days so it
was unlikely it was emergency construction. Heck, the road is gravel and there are no
services anywhere! I really wasn't interested in backtracking 125 miles yet again towards
Anchorage, most likely in thunderstorms at that. I also believed being on a motorcycle
versus in a land yacht RV that I might be able to squeeze by whatever issue was going on.... so,
I decided to take off down Denali Highway! During the first 10 miles I must admit I was
questioning if adventurous had crossed over the fine line into stupidity especially since it was
pouring rain. However, I could see the sun just ahead and so I rode on. Sure enough,
it stopped and the remaining 125 miles were simply amazing. Rain clouds loomed literally
in every direction but I seemed to be in the right place at the right time and never got wet. I
guess everyone going west to east (like me) had decided the note at the gas station was law and gone
elsewhere since I didn't see a single vehicle traveling the same direction as me. I did pass 2
RV's and 1 Jeep coming east to west. Yes, in 135 miles I saw 3 cars total! I had Denali
Highway to myself!! I took a bazillion photos and rather than try an give words to the
experience I think it's best to just post the photos. For those who will never be able to
experience Denali Highway, perhaps these pictures will provide a sense of what it's like.
Came across this while I was stopped at one point:
A view behind me...
... and the view in front:
Several Caribou crossed in front of me here though I was unable to get a photo:
This next photo is a significant one for me because I stopped not to take the photo but
because I heard a weird noise coming from the bike. I'll never forget that “uh-oh”
reality that this wouldn't be the most optimal location to have mechanical problems. I
felt a vibration in the pegs and heard a knocking sound... no, not good. I absolutely
could not figure out the source of the noise nor did I have a diagnostic guess. I
rode on and did so with the biggest grin on my face. I mean, c'mom, sometimes the
most memorable parts of a journey are the unexpected. I had enough food, water, and
I had shelter (my tent) and appropriate clothing, not too mention incredible scenery. Someone
at sometime – probably the next day - would have come along, so what was there to worry
about? I remember thinking that my biggest concern was being able to get the bike
repaired before Kobi flies in next Friday. I'd really hate for a mechanical issue
to disrupt a trip she has been intensely awaiting. I rode on....
The last 15 miles of the Denali highway (before intersecting with the Richardson Highway)
is paved. Just before this I saw several large construction type trucks and orange
signs that said “Construction Ahead, Possible Delayed Closures”. There wasn't a person
in sight and my guess was that was the area that explained that sign back at the gas
station. Someone probably had gone in and told her the road was closed for a while,
meaning there was a lengthy delay, something that is not uncommon around here with the road
construction. I'd be willing to bet that the vast majority of people coming into the
store ask “What's the condition of the road?” so the lady just slapped up that sign as she
understood it. I thought about all the people who turned back or rerouted and missed
a glorious day on the Denali Highway. Another example how the communication of
information, including miscommunication, affects the journey.
When I rejoined the Richardson Highway (AK-4) I went south towards Glennallen. I had
loosely planned to make my way down further south and ride out to Kennicott the next day,
but given the noise with the bike I felt it might be prudent to head towards civilization,
which would be Anchorage. I've found that after dinner time around here the roads
are desolate. It doesn't seem to matter what road, if it's after dinner, I've got
it to myself. Plus, there are no road construction delays. As I passed through
Glennallen, I saw a sign that you don't see much in the lower 48 states:
... nor do you see these type of roadside poles:
I think I've seen more rainbows the last week in Alaska than I have the last year:
Suffice to say it has been an incredible day!
Here is a map of today's route with the Denali Highway segment denoted between #2 and #3 shown:
... and the day's end GPS:
I guess I could worry about the bike, but I'll address it tomorrow. I'm choosing to be
in the moment and relish the journey today. Allowing problems that I can do nothing
about at current disrupt my current experience is something I find critical to keep in check
during my journey... on a motorcycle and in life.
AGirl
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