August 4, 2007 - 2 Chicks, 2 Wheels - Gravel, Grizzlies, & Glaciers! (Dease Lake, BC to Hyder, AK) - Part 1



  The Stewart-Cassiar Highway (also known as BC-37) had a few issues this past week, namely a section of the road washed out.  Thankfully, friends kept me posted on the conditions which enabled the “2 Chicks, 2 Wheels” to keep rolling in the direction of the Cassiar rather than prematurely implement a Plan B.  The road reopened over the last few days but only from 11am-2pm and with alternating traffic (meaning delays).  Since we didn't know what to expect, we decided to get an early start.  We packed the bike at 7am and did so in bright and upper 50's conditions...simply glorious weather!    Kobi hadn't considered the morning wind chill factor before departure so a few minutes into the ride we stopped so she could add another layer:

The stop allowed me the opportunity to tell her once again how utter flattering she looks in motorcycle gear.  Kobi is an “ATGATT” (All The Gear All The Time) rider like me but she simply hates “all this stuff that makes me look like a Hobo!”  She said she doesn't understand why Victoria's Secret can't make motorcycle gear. 

The Hobo and I got back on the bike and quickly came across two areas that looked like this:

...but then we were greeted with a grand surprise:

YIPPEE!!! 

Our plan was to stay in Hyder, Alaska tonight.  Yes, we were heading back into Alaska.  In the past two days we've gone from Alaska (Tok, AK) into the Yukon Territory (Haines Junction, YT), thru British Columbia (BC), back into AK (at Haines), thru YT again (Watson Lake), down to BC (Dease Lake) and now towards AK (Hyder).  If you are geographically challenged then here's a bit of help:

In the map above you'll see a pushpin icon about halfway between the #3 and #4... that's approximately the location of the washout.  I was somewhat anxious about this area since I couldn't get any first hand information from someone who had been on the road.  The folks we had met over the past few days while we were en route to the Cassiar had all said they were not chancing the conditions and we going to take the Alaska Highway instead.  Part of me was glad to know we'd likely have the road to ourselves and the other part was a bit anxious since sometimes having a bunch of land yacht RVs ahead of you to pack down the road is a good thing.

The Cassiar Highway use to be an all gravel route but over the years pavement (or what they call pavement) has slowly replaced much of the stones.  There are still two long segments of gravel to enjoy or despise (depending on your mode of travel and preference I reckon).  The most of the “paved” section is called “sealcoating” according to the most informative lady piloting the Pilot Car...

...who explained “we grade the surface, put down a layer of tar, then put crush (gravel) on top of it.”  Our impromptu schooling in the middle of the road was interrupted by her radio squawking and alerting us to continue forward so I didn't get to ask further questions, namely surrounding the need to heavily douse the road with water making for at least one anxious motorcycle passenger and certainly some challenging conditions.  Nonetheless, here's what she was explaining:

Off we go:

The next section of dirt and gravel was so mucky that Kobi had to put the camera away after taking a few photo at the beginning and so she could hang on with both hands.  I can only describe it as soupy slop and personally I would not have attempted to traverse it on a bike that wasn't a dual-sport.  These are photos from the good sections of the mess:

After making it through the area of construction and repair we stopped at the next available pullout so we could regroup.  A rider on a dual sport bike with knobby tires who had been riding behind me through the soupy slop also stopped.  He came over to me and shook my hand, saying “I just wanted to tell you that you are an excellent rider... I'm not saying it because you're a girl or anything... you can just flat out ride... that road was horrible and the way you handled that big bike with a passenger and luggage was simply impressive.”    I was humbled and, in all honesty, completely shocked – perhaps because I don't consider myself a good or bad rider... I just ride.  I've never had anyone say such about my non-pavement riding and I certainly don't see myself as having special off-road skills.  In fact, I don't have that much experience in off-road conditions.  Well, ok, at least on a motorcycle I don't; I have more experience in a mountain bike saddle than I do in a motorcycle saddle (yeah, I know, probably surprising given my motorcycle mileage) and the two do share some commonalities.  Nonetheless, his compliment was confidence inspiring, especially after I heard his experiences.

Back to the pavement:

Our Canuck friend in Phoenix will love seeing this guy we passed: (Lynette, will the HOA allow this in the front yard?   )

An unmarked gravel section, though it was brief...

...followed by the smoothest pavement I've seen in BC!

More bears roadside!  Kobi's got a good eye and a quick reflex to get these type shots:

And a fellow rider:

At least we're going in the right direction!

The road to Hyder from the Cassiar is about 30 miles and quite scenic:

A few miles from Stewart, BC and Hyder, AK (they are essentially on the same street and are one community), we came across yet another bear on the side of the road:

One of the 18 glaciers around Stewart, BC/Hyder, AK that happens to be very close to the road:

Continuing on towards Hyder:

 Hey, we made it!:

In the photo above there is an American flag.  Just to the right of the flag and on the same building we saw a sign that shocked both of us:

 WOO-HOO!!  What a surprise, though neither of us could figure out who actually put the thing up!

A sign outside our hotel, the SeaAlaska Inn:

If one thinks we arrived Hyder and then called it a day, well, you're in for a surprise.  This day was by far the most epic day of the “2 Chicks, 2 Wheels” journey, so much so that Grand Webmaster says it's best to split the day into two web pages given the plethora of photos.  So, to continue on with us for the remainder of today go to the next page by clicking the link below ...


Continued On Part 2 - Click Here To Continue

AGirl

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