May 25, 2007 - Blue Ridge Parkway (VA/NC)



Since I spent last night in Charlottesville, VA (with my new friends Jason and Deb), I was within 25 miles from the northern terminus of the Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP), which was my intended route for today.  The BRP is one of the elite eight “All American Roads” in the US as well as one of the 44 to receive an “America's Scenic Byway” designation.  For those who are not familiar with the BRP's location, here is a map along with basic details:

For those wanting specifics, here are the exact GPS coordinates for the Parkway's northern end: N38 1.868, W78 51.488 and the coordinates for the southern end: N35 30.305, W83 18.080 (Note to the Matriarch and to those who don't own a GPS unit: Simply copy one of those coordinates and paste it in Google maps:  HERE)

During the 25 miles on I-64 West from Charlottesville to the entrance to the Parkway (which is also the southern terminus of Shenandoah National Park), I reflected on previous BRP jaunts that were done in pouring rain, bitter cold, swelting heat, etc., which made me even more thankful for the absolutely freakin' perfect weather today!    Yee-haw!!  Blue sky, slight breeze, and a mercury reading of 65-70 degrees!  I have been on the Parkway literally countless times; while attending college in Charlottesville I would head for the Parkway every chance possible whether it was to play or to study, or a combination of both.  I've ridden the entire length of the Parkway at least a dozen times, and every single time, just like today, my excitement escalates with every passing mile as I approached the entrance:

Just beyond the entrance sign is another sign, one that I'm confident motorcyclist would vote as “Least Favorite Sign”:

After pausing to take those two photos, Sarah McLachlan (on the iPod) and I (on the FJR) commenced the Blue Ridge Parkway portion of this East Coast 2007 journey.  Being that today is the Friday of Memorial Day weekend, I was quite concerned about hitting traffic as well as finding a campsite near the southern end, which is where I intended to pitch my tent tonight.  My first clue that dealing with holiday travelers was not going to be an issue came when I stopped at the first Visitor Center on the Parkway and talked with the non-gun totin' Ranger inside.  Ranger “Jim” was very reassuring I could score a campsite but he still made a phone call to his Ranger counterpart on the southern end of the BRP and confirmed that finding a tent space later today would be “no issue whatsoever, ma'am.”    By the way, not only does this road provide incredible views and the opportunity to ride in the absence of commercial trucks, but it also has another very important offering: National Park Passport stamps!! Woo-hoo!    Ranger Jim stamped my book and said he'd never met someone with so many Passport Stamps.  (My complete list: HERE).   I actually bagged many of the Stamps on the BRP last summer (2006), however, several Visitor Centers (VC) were not open at the time I was passing through, so today's BRP “Stamping Expedition” plan was to include stops at those VCs.  For those of you collecting NPS stamps, every VC on the BRP has their own stamp, a fact not well known.  While at the VC with Jim I perused the various displays and information available.  My favorite sign in that VC:

Charlie Mac gets a big +1 for that statement!    There is something about the mountains for me (which is why I was a full time resident at 7000' feet for a decade) that stirs my spirit and offers my body and mind room to roam even more freely.  I was blessed to have grown up a few miles from the entrance to one of the eight “All American Roads” (the Natchez Trace Parkway in TN) and I went to college less than 25 miles from another one of the eight.  (For a complete list, click: HERE).  No matter what the weather or time of year may be, I find a journey on one of these roads is simply renewing and cleansing for mind and spirit.  If you spend time on the BRP and exit stressed, then you didn't really ride the Parkway in my opinion... you just brought all your crap with you and lugged it through the twists and turns, let it blast over the sounds of nature that envelope you on the Parkway, and allowed it to blind you at the plethora of inspiring overlooks like these:

While I was parked beside the sign in that last photo, a man pulled into the overlook on his motorcycle and parked in front of me, thus unable to see my AZ license plate.  Like a puffed up peacock, the rider proceeded to prance around his motorcycle by the overlook while drinking water and telling me about his experience riding “all the way from Atlanta.”  I respectfully listened while I was re-gearing and preparing for my departure though I was thinking this guy is so full of himself it's funny.  I don't typically volunteer information about myself or my travels, and in situations like these it's almost never; however, I will answer a direct, non-personal question if asked.  Just as I was ready to start the FJR, he asked me but a single question: “So, where did you ride from?”  Well, mister puffed up peacock's expression to my response of: “I left Arizona one month and 9,000 miles ago” was simply priceless.  I couldn't even begin to describe it! 

My concerns about any holiday weekend congestion dwindled over the course of the next 150 miles during my jaunt down the BRP where, strangely, I saw only one RV, less than a dozen automobiles, and approximately 50 motorcycles!  That's in 150 miles on one of America's Scenic Byways on a Friday of a holiday weekend...simply amazing!    I was even more surprised that 95% of all traffic was heading in the opposite (northern) direction of me!  Regarding the two wheeled travelers, there were several large groups of motorcycles but most were single bikes, and I'd say about half were riding 2-up (with a passenger).  To add to my shock, in that 150 miles I saw a grand total of zero Park Ranger LEOs (Law Enforcement Officers...that'd be of the gun-totin-ticket-issuing variety), which was a good thing since I was still in the state of Virginia and running without my beloved V1 radar since detectors are illegal in the Commonwealth.

I took a planned detour off the Parkway to head over to Hardy, VA and the Booker T. Washington National Monument:

Since I'm a person who is all about respect too, Booker gets a +1 from me on his statement.  I believe you could substitute the word “race” with any group, like “team” or “company” too.

The reason for the detour was for, of course, a Passport Stamp but I certainly returned to the Parkway with much more than a stamp.  The brief 45 mile detour to Booker's place sent me through a few small towns which had enough traffic lights and commercial trucks to have me yearning for the Parkway.  I couldn't wait to get back on the mountain and away from the hustle-bustle-horns honking-trash laden-busyness streets.  Once I reached the Parkway, a deep breathe of relief was had as well as a pause at this overlook to acknowledge how good it felt to be alive and enjoying the beauty in life and nature:

While I ate a banana, my eyes wandered across the valley below and my mind wondered how many people in that valley are living in an illusion as if there is a guarantee of a tomorrow, or even the rest of today.  I doubt anyone would have heard it, but I considered yelling “SEIZE THE JOURNEY, THERE IS ONLY SO MUCH TIME!” 

I don't know the number of official overlooks along the BRP but they certainly frequent and not far apart.  It would greatly extend your travel time if you stopped at all of them but I always find it difficult to pass one by. Here are a few more and the views they offer:

I stopped briefly to walk around this area and skip a few rocks in the lake...

... then shortly thereafter I came upon another pullout that I always enjoy taking a quick hike down a path to see this:

Maybe my most favorite sign of the day:

What that sign really says for some of us is: “You may now reconnect your radar detectors!”, which is exactly what I was doing in the photo!  Within the first 10 miles it was called to duty as I passed a north bound Park Ranger LEO (btw, running Ka band).... sweeeeeeeet!  My goose-egg streak (ZERO tickets EVER) is alive! 

This might be the most popular sign on the Parkway with motorcyclists:

Aside from what is pictured being odd, I find that the curve beyond the sign is not really uniquely different from many other curves found on the Parkway though this is the only goofy sign in all 469 miles:

I made it to the campground with almost an hour before sunset, and much like Ranger Jim had said earlier in the day, I had no problems finding tent space.  I proceeded to set up my tent then do what most riders who had just completed over 400 miles ripping down the Parkway would do... I went back out riding!  Rest?  Are you kidding?!  Seize the journey means ALL of it.  Hey, I figure I'll have plenty of time to rest when I'm dead!  Since I was needing to address a flashing fuel light, and since I really wanted to be on an overlook to watch most of the sunset, I figured I could accomplish both.  The BRP is notorious for deer, so given the time of day I knew I was in a “red zone” but I figured I'd go very, very slow and not go too far.  Since my GPS does not denote the small roadside turnouts for the overlooks, I had no way of knowing just how far the next turnout was located.  After 15 miles with not a single overlook, I whipped a U-turn and headed back towards camp.  That pesky flashing fuel light seemed to get brighter and brighter though I'm sure it was just my imagination.  My GPS pulled up a name brand station that was 7 miles from camp off the mountain so I took this photo then headed for petrol:

My GPS and I have a love-hate relationship.  Sometimes it sends me through a break in a barbed wire fence across a grass field, and sometimes it directs me down roads that are simply unforgettable.  It's offering tonight to get me to a gas station included North Carolina state road 80 (or “NC-80”).  Oh, my, what a find!  WOW!!  I throughly enjoyed the ride down but the reality of that fuel light once at the bottom suggested my victorious find for the evening should be a gas station and not the NC-80 road.  I followed the route to the gas station but I was greeted with a big fat “Closed” sign upon arrival.    Uh-oh.  I did a new search for “Nearest gas station”, and the results sent me another 5 miles away.  Being that I was in a rural area, there wasn't much traffic out on this Friday night of Memorial Day weekend.  Ok, there was none... except when I came over a hill I saw two small tail lights and knew they belonged to motorcycles.  Thankfully, they were moving at a very slow pace and I was able to catch them at a stop sign.  I pulled up and asked if they knew where the closest place was for me to refuel since I was running on fumes.    They said it was two miles away and they'd lead me there.    WOO-HOO!!  I was completely relieved even if I did run out (which, by the way, hasn't happened in a looooong time and never on the FJR) since not only because I had new friends leading me, but also because I carry an “Oklahoma credit card” (aka “gas siphon”) on-board.

Once at the station I filled up, WAY up...

... and I met “Christal”, who two days prior had completed the MSF's Basic Rider Course, and just last night had purchased a new motorcycle: (It was much darker outside, I had to use the flash):

They were all stunned I had ridden from Phoenix, especially Christal.  She related her “complete and utter fear just riding from my house a few miles from here”, and couldn't fathom riding across country, much less 65,000 miles in one year (my 2006 total).  Listening to Christal as she dismounted from her first street ride and witnessing her energy and emotions certainly made for a unique gas stop.  After visiting with Christal and her parents, I bid farewell and went a few miles down the road to a convenience store (I refueled at a pay-at-the-pump only station) where I met “Michael”, a local track junkie and super nice guy:

(Note: just happenstance a LEO car is in that photo.... hmmm, how many thought my goose egg streak had ended??  HA!)

As we guzzled our Mountain Dews, he gave me the scoop on the area and said “whatever you do, it has to include a road called NC-80.”  What luck—I'd already found it!

  After saying goodbye to Michael, I saw the GPS was saying going back up NC-80 was my only option to get back to camp... and it was pitch dark at this point!  Yikes!!  I love super twisty mountain grades, but not at night for goodness sakes!  Not only would I need to get up NC-80 but I also had to cover several miles on the Parkway itself to return to camp.  I rarely mismanage my fuel or the sun, and to have both happen at the same time was indeed a first in all the years I've been riding.  (Note to the Matriarch: re-read that last sentence a few times).  As I climbed back up NC-80 with my fork-mounted Moto-Lights showing the way, I thought about the folks who don't believe auxillary headlights are necessary or who don't understand the importance of fork mounted lights (as the front wheel turns so do the lights, thus illuminating your path of travel, versus non-fork mounted lights which only illuminate straight ahead).  Well, there is nothing straight about NC-80 and I've never been so thankful for my MotoLights than I was tonight; they were worth their weight in gold!  (As an aside, MotoLight is also on my Five Star product & vendor list).    I made it back up to the Parkway and as I turned right to head towards camp, several raccoons scurried across the road.  As expected, there was no traffic and no other lights than those coming from my FJR.  A few miles later I pulled into an overlook, turned the bike off, and just sat looking at the stars and listening to nature's noctural sounds around me.  It was an experience I could have only had alone, but one that I wish I could share with everyone.

Today's final Stamping Expedition results:

And the GPS total:

WOW, what a great day it has been!

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AGirl


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