August 17, 2006 - Reporting from Rapid City/Black Hills, SD |
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Salute from Rapid City/Black Hills, SD! Yes, I left Springfield, IL this morning after collecting the
stamp, then hit West Branch, IA for a stamp, onward to Omaha, NE, then Sioux Falls, SD and arrived here late
this evening (yes, it was a "USS" ride... meaning an Unofficial SaddleSore 1000). The last 350 miles
were simply epic!
After bagging the Springfield, IL stamp I headed north on I-74 towards West Branch, IA for yet another state stamp. My plans after W.Branch were completely undecided; I really wanted to continue on up to the edge of MN for their state stamp but given the Visitors Center's 5pm closing time it didn't look like I'd make it which would mean I'd have to hold over nearby for the night just to get the stamp the next morning, something I wasn't really interested in doing. The other option was heading towards Beatrice, NE (south of Omaha) for a stamp then through KS for a stamp and onward to AZ. Depending on how the usual variables factored (how “spirited” I could run, traffic & weather conditions, my detouring down a really nice looking road, how much I talked with folks along the way, etc.,etc) I might be able to hit the NE stamp before it closed which would allow me to continue to KS and position myself for their state stamp the next day. I figured once I got close to Omaha I'd know if I could make it by closing time so I planned to just make the decision then. Basically, as I rode out of Springfield I was undecided of my route beyond the IA stamp and certainly which state I'd be spending the night. Heading from IL to IA was an uneventful ride except I noticed there seemed to be little to no motorcycle traffic even for a Wed. Once I hit I-80 at Davenport that all changed; at least in the east bound lane it did. I must have seen 3 dozen bikes in a half hour. Not any big groups, rather scattered singles or pairs here and there. It was very odd to be seeing all these bikes mid-day and mid-week. The more I rode the more I noticed most all theses riders had something in common too -- on cruisers and wearing no gear (it's a fact, no judgment implied... remember I'm the one who says helmet laws interfere with natural selection!). The traffic both directions on I-80 was very congested. No construction, no wrecks, just dense traffic, which doesn't make for a pleasant or “spirited” ride. As I rode along I-80 I thought that my ride report about going thru Iowa would be very easy since I could sum it all up in one 4 letter word: CORN. If you can picture riding down an interstate with cornfields as far as the eye can see to your left and to your right then you've just been to Iowa! I guess I forget between trips just how much corn is in Iowa. People, everything about Iowa is about corn. Corn festivals. Amusement areas based on corn ("Corn Maizes”), schools offering degrees based on corn, etc. Iowa is quite proud it is responsible for 1/5 of the US production of corn based on the signage I passed. And what goes along with high farming areas? That's right, farm equipment. And Iowa is also proud they not only produced the first tractor but they hold current claim to being the state with the largest tractor manufacturing plant. (See, what terrific tidbits you learn to impress your friends at the happy hour!). If you are half-awake (or asleep) passing thru Iowa you too will learn this and other very interesting Iowa agriculture facts. Let me say that the state of Iowa gets two thumbs up from me for having wireless internet access at every rest area! Apparently these people grow corn and do quite a bit of net surfing too. Anyway, I hope other states start following the example set by IA; here's hoping AZ & CA are the next two states to implement such service for travelers. The stream of motorcycles was continuous on I-80. I never passed a bike heading west on I-80 but the bike traffic eastbound was very perplexing. I did pass the “World's Largest Truck Stop” in Walcott, IA. The numerous signs leading to THE truck stop of all truck stops advertised the joint as being quite the happenin' place.... a Trucking Hall of Fame, annual Truckers' Jamboree, truckers' warehouse store, truckers' only second floor with Dolby Surround Sound movie theater, "Driver's Den" complete with fireplace, laundry facilities, barber shop, and dental office. As I passed this trucker paradise I wondered where is the motorcycle rider's version of this located?? Arrived West Branch, IA for the “Herbert Hoover NHS” stamp. Exited the Visitor's Center and was preparing to put my helmet back on when the loudest siren I have ever heard in my life erupted. If there was going to be an alert for the world coming to an end this would be the sound. Thankfully, I somehow managed to keep my helmet in hand and didn't dive for cover in the nearby bushes. At first I thought it must be a tornado warning system and reconsidered jumping in the bushes but being that it was blazing sunny and there were zero clouds in the sky I was even more confused. My second explanation was simply “terrorists” (hey, it was so loud I think it rattled my brain and ability to think!) but then I remembered I was in podunk W. Branch not W. Baltimore. I looked around and saw 2 women strolling down the street in dress clothes with tennis shoes in what seemed to be their lunch time break and they were carrying on an energetic discussion as if nothing had just happened. My next thought was “I need that horn for my bike!!” So, half-deaf and quite confused, I stumbled back inside to ask the Ranger if possibly the world was ending or if I should be doing something besides riding my motorcycle off into the sunset. He advised me, somewhat proudly I might add, that the deafening sound was merely the town's “tornado warning system and, in fact, one of the sirens is located just outside our building.” Apparently today was a testing day that was announced to the locals. So much for jolting the bejeezus out of vistors. I stopped for gas outside Omaha and decided before I made my final decision for my route that I'd check my weather radar. A blob of red (severe thunderstorm) was headed right for Lincoln, NE which was a via point to one of my destination options. Seeing that, I quickly decided to head north at Omaha on I-29 and head for South Dakota in hopes of averting the storm. It wasn't too long after I hit I-29 en route to Sioux Falls that the explanation for the bike traffic became clear... Sturgis had just ended last weekend. I made it to Sioux Falls without incident though there was quiet a bit if road construction forcing lane closures. I briefly considered staying in Sioux Falls but knew if I did then I wouldn't be able to catch the 3 stamps I was after in SD, WY and NE all the next day. Sioux Falls is the last major city before Rapid City (which is 350mi away) and I knew continuing on to the Black Hills area would put me over 1000 for the day. It was late afternoon, the temps were falling and it felt like a storm was brewing. The sun was still full and I could tell by the clouds that it was going to be a brilliant sunset, my first west coast-ish sunset in almost 2 months and I really wanted to experience it. I felt good and the prospects of riding into this sunset was in and of itself energizing so I filled up (the bike and me) then hit the road again. The ride from Sioux Falls to Rapid City on I-90 was unforgettable. I don't have any pictures because it was what I experienced not really what I saw. Within 20 min of leaving Sioux Falls I was the only human on the west bound side of I-90. The east side still had a few bikes but the traffic was very light. The beauty that surrounded me was indescribable... the air had an exhilarating fresh smell, the cloud formations, the colors of the sky, the trees, the prairie falcon perched on a barbed-wire fence off the road, the wildflowers...just simply breathtaking. And I was able to enjoy this with no other cars or trucks around. This wasn't a country back road I was on nor was it in the middle of the night. This was 7pm on a major east-west interstate. Desolate. I briefly wondered if perhaps there was an interstate closure or perhaps some big tv event was happening or who knows what explained the lack of traffic. Needless to say, I enjoyed every mile and minute. About 100mi outside of Sioux Falls and just before sunset the wind picked up enormously. I could tell it was a windy area since the trees looked like they were growing sideways. The man at the gas station said it was always windy there and the people that lived there wouldn't know what to do if there was a day without such wicked wind. “Relocating” came to my mind. I'm just not someone who enjoys wind all that much. My GPS showed exits were few and far between. What it doesn't display is if the station runs on rural time and closes at sunset or something like whenever the fish are biting. Not wanting to take a chance I stopped for gas every 50-75mi or so. Having an “Oklahoma credit card” (aka gas siphon) wouldn't have done any good since I passed 2 big rigs and a horse transport truck the entire route to the Rapid City. Don't think their diesel would have done the Strom much good. The sunset was indeed glorious. Now, if you're wondering what is between Sioux Falls and Rapid City I'll tell you... nothing as far as commercialism goes. I don't recall the exact number of exits but in a 350mi stretch it's not very many. The absence of airport landing like lighted signs that clutter and advertise the same burger joint found in every town and city nationwide was very welcomed. In fact, there were no lights anywhere; not even DOT road signs were lit, including the exits. Basically, when the sun sets it's dark. I mean DARK. No lights off in the distance at some little town or such. Just complete darkness. If you close your eyes, put on a blindfold, while in a dark closet you'll get the idea of how dark. Pay-at-the-pump gas stations are non-existent in most rural areas and along I-90 is no different. I see it as a chance to mix with the locals. At one particular station as soon as I walked in the lady behind the counter announces “You are one brave woman!” Honestly I didn't know what she was referring to.... was this “bravery” because I was riding a motorcycle, because I was female, because it was dark and no one else was on the road... I really had no idea what she was referencing so I said “why is that?” She said because I was a female riding alone. I usually just pass such comments off while acknowledging the person has apparently come up against their own personal perspective limitations but given she worked on the very route that is on the direct path to Sturgis I was a bit surprised to hear her declaration. If I wasn't so concerned about my bike being blown over by the wind outside I would have asked her if this “bravery” she noted would be seen any different if I was riding with another female? What if I was riding with another man? As a passenger instead? During daytime hours? As I paid for the gas she informed me that this past wkend during the Sturgis rally that the Hell's Angels had shot (wounded) 6 of the Outlaws and for me “to be very careful.” I said they must have all wimped out with the wind or something since I hadn't seen anyone, including an outlaw or angel, for quite some time on the road. I said I was more concerned with 4 legged creatures than 2 anyway, which happens to be the case all the time. The wind calmed shortly thereafter and the last 150 miles were as spectacular as the first 150 of the I-90 ride just in a different way. Since I was the only vehicle on the road I pulled off to the side once. I turned the bike off and lifted my helmet. It's been a while since I saw that many stars (remember it was DARK). It's not often you get the opportunity to see the beauty of complete darkness plus the sound of silence. It's hard for me to describe the experience riding the rest of the way into Rapid City. Sheer peace. (Yeah, I know, some people can't fathom whipping 80mph down a dark road as a nirvanic environment). It was like there was a symbiotic triad between the bike, me, and all that defines nature and life. Perhaps a synchronized dance with a cadence that reverberated the energy all around. When is the last time you heard your engine (ahem, your brain) tick within the sound of complete silence? There were no animal crossing/warning signs the entire route. Nonetheless, I stayed on mega high alert. I only saw a coyote and a fox off to the side of the road. My fork mounted auxiliary lights (Moto Lights) are worth every cent in conditions like these. They do a fantastic job of lighting not only in front but to the side as well. I rode with the same feeling I did when I was a competing athlete and had prepared and trained for a big game. The confidence knowing you are well prepared and have a game plan is critical to success, or in this case, perhaps not only staying out of harm's way but enjoying the experience to the fullest extent. 
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