Ok, so Mother Nature might not be a Yamaha fan if the last week's weather is any indication,
but weatherunderground.com has convinced me that I've got a small window to scoot out of here
before the next system rolls in. So, decided to hit the road and get this “R” (and my most
favorite) part of this F-A-R journey underway: RIDE!
Actually, I've ridden a few miles since acquiring the FJR but did so in less than ideal conditions
(um, like 16 degrees). I'm currently in Ocean Springs, MS, staying with friends after departing
Nashville this morning in wonderful 38 degrees and sunny weather (hey, 37 is a heat wave when you've
just been in 16 degrees!).
I hit I-65 south and started to wake up as the FJR warmed up. While cruising along I noticed
that it seemed 1 out of every 4 billboards I passed reflected religious content. During the
drive to Ontario, CA for the USA Four Corners banquet with my Dad, he commented on how odd it was
to see billboards advertising breast implants and that he'd not seen such signs in TN (I reminded
him he was in California). Well, I didn't pass any breast implant signs but I did pass a
particular sign a few miles before the Bama state line. I don't want to come across as
disrespectful so I'll refrain from further comments on this one
I wondered what it says about the area where a local business needs to give away free drinks to attract
customers to see naked women? Perhaps the alcohol enticement (or the actual women??) wasn't
enough as the joint looked like it was out of business. I can only imagine what my west coast
friends will say when they see this!
Stopped at the state line and the Alabama Welcome Center, a place which has a few unusual landmarks,
the biggest being the 224 foot Saturn IB rocket:
This section of I-65 is called the "Blue Star Memorial Highway":
I have no idea what the story is behind this marker that sits beside the welcome center in the
grass. I thought it was a headstone for a grave:
After crossing into the "Heart of Dixie" (the AL state slogan) it's only a half hour or so to
the Hwy 31 exit that leads to Cullman. On my 2 previous rides to D&H on Hwy 31 I saw
another unusual sign in front of a lumber yard, this time I decided to stop and take a photo
of it. Perhaps "common sense" is only common in AL?
I stopped by D&H so I could say good-bye to everyone and also settle my bill. On Friday
when I rode down to D&H for the first service and to get the Service Manual (actually exchange
their manual for my new one), I went to pay the total and tried to hand Virginia a credit card
as she was going in a dozen different directions organizing stock, researching parts, shuffling
paperwork, etc. She paused, looked at me and said "Honey, we don't accept no credit cards."
I told her I didn't have a check and didn't have that amount of cash on me. Not missing a beat,
she continued to move about and replied: "We juz do thangs diff'rent 'round here, but it's no problum,
juz mail me a check when ya git 'round to it."
Wow, I felt like I traveled back in time or something! I told her I don't like having outstanding
debits and that I would hand deliver the cash to her when I came back through today.
Got a photo with my latest idol: 
Hugs and good-byes to all my new found friends at D&H Cycle then the FJR and I headed south to…
yup, you guessed it… another Passport Stamp! I had plans to stay with friends in Ocean Springs,
MS and hoped to arrive early evening. Aside from wanting to see my friends, I wanted to end the
day on the east side of New Orleans since today is Fat Tuesday.
Reeeeally wished I could have had a slice of King Cake and joined in the Mardi Gras party (did so once,
a decade ago) but the weather didn't cooperate with even considering a viable plan to get there in time.
By the time I left Cullman it was in the mid-40's and I was ready to settle into the ride. My
intention this morning was to stop by D&H then ride to 3 different stamp locations in Alabama and end
up in Ocean Springs, MS for the night. Stamp locations are almost always located in off the beaten
path and scenic areas which makes for some wonderful riding. Today was no exception. After reaching
Birmingham I ditched the superslab (freeway) in favor of US-280 and then various backroads that led me to
Horseshoe Bend National Military Park:
There was an auto-tour route that was a few miles long but I find that I reach my cannon-observing limit
fairly quickly, especially when the speed limit is 15mph and I'd rather be wicking it up somewhere. Anyway,
Horseshoe Bend (thus named for the shape of the nearby river) is near Newsite, AL (far east AL near GA line)
and is where a bunch of Creek Indians and Andrew Jackson led troops brawled. It is also where I got my
first stamp of the day.
I really enjoyed riding the backwoods country roads in AL. Deer processing signs were prevalent and
one advertised this spring they were going to "full service processing." I have no idea what this
means but it seemed like based on the arrows and lights around the sign it was going to be a big deal. My
next stop was the Tuskegee Airman National Historic Site near Tuskegee,
AL. While en route, I passed the first motorcycle I'd seen since, well, since I got the FJR 10 days
ago! By the way, I waved, the cruiser rider didn't so the first bike to pass the FJR and… got
stiffed. I don't know why I remember things like that but I do. Actually, I think it was near this sign too:
Got the stamp in the Visitor Center, perused the various displays and information about this group of
airmen who were the first African-American military (Air Force) pilots. The site is undergoing
significant renovation but I still managed to ride down behind the Visitor Center to Moton Field to
take a photo of the lone plane near the airstrip:
The keen eyes, such as those belonging to my webmaster, will note that the plane is a US Navy plane,
specifically a Cougar Grumman F9F-8T. (My
level of enthusiasm for historical planes and cannons are equal). The story behind the Navy plane
being on an Air Force historical area is this per the Ranger on duty: "The city purchased the property
and put the Navy plane there in the 1970's where it has sat and rusted for over 30 years. It
originally flew from the USS Lexington which is now a floating memorial in Texas. It's supposedly
going to an air museum in Birmingham." (So, Mr. Webmaster, now you have your answer!)
Webmaster Note: OK, so I love airplanes and a Navy F9F sitting at the airfield named for the
Tuskeegee Airmen sticks out about like a Suzuki in front of a Harley bar. Some things were
just never meant to be!
I do appreciate AGirl getting an answer to my question of why a Navy plane is parked there though.
The Tuskeegee Airmen were an amazing group of individuals for their day and time. In fact they
were an amazing group of men for ANY day and time! They accepted the challenges of bigotry and
racism and managed to become the first all-black fighter squadron in the USAAF. I admire anyone
that will set their sights on a goal and do whatever it takes to achieve it. These men did that
in spite of everything that they were up against.
The Tuskeegee Airmen have their own web site at This Link
Onward into Tuskegee itself and the Tuskegee Institute National
Historic Site, site of George Washington Carver museum and home of Booker T. Washington. The
US Park run site happens to be in the middle of Tuskegee University, so if you plan on visiting this
site I would suggest doing so on a non-school day. There were students running around everywhere,
though a grand total of ZERO of them knew which building housed the US Park Service (and my stamp!).
I did get a full tour of the campus, that's for sure. At one point during my many loop tour of the
university, I decided to park the bike and make a phone call or two. A student was standing nearby
so I asked him if he knew where the Park Headquarters might be located and he said no. I talked with
him for several minutes, mostly answering questions about my motorcycle and the Stamping Expedition I'm
on. Before departing to resume my aimless search, I asked him if he had declared a major yet. His
answer? History.
I thought it was rather odd to be a History major and have no idea where this historical part within the
university was located. I did finally locate the site, which was diagonally from where I was talking
with the History major.
I left the university and took several rural backroads as I meandered in the general direction of my
intended destination (heavy emphasis on "general"). I do this frequently .... take whatever roads
looks interesting and when I need to get "back on track" I resume the GPS routing. Those who have
ridden with me or who follow my tracking refer to this as the "AGirl route." While not too far from
the university but definitely off the beaten path, I passed a dilapidated house that was completely marred
with spray painting of racial slurs and a rope noose that was hanging from the top of the porch. I was
shocked. Absolutely shocked. My brain struggled to wrap itself around the idea that this was 2007
and I was not looking at some historical/educational display; real, live racism was staring me in the
face. As I sat on the bike trying to process this scene I watched a very young African-American boy
riding his bicycle at the end of the street about 100 yards away. Tears welled in my eyes and for that
moment I was ashamed to be white. I felt helpless and sad. I elected not to take a photo of the
house but I will always have the picture in my mind. I think I could write an endless essay on my
experience of that moment.
Despite the various delays getting me to this point, I was actually very much ahead of where I'd thought I
would be after acquiring the 3 stamps so I consulted my GPS about what might be between me and my dinner
destination of Ocean Springs, MS.
All it took was seeing there was a stamp in the direction of Pensacola, FL and off I went. The GPS told
me I would make it to Gulf Islands National Seashore located
off US-98 just east of Gulf Breeze, FL, at 4:20pm, which would mean I only had 10 minutes to spare since the
Visitor Center closed at 4:30. My GPS has not yet figured out that I rode a more "spirited" pace and
that I could likely widen that 10 minute cushion especially since the route was over 250 miles. The
further south I went on I-85, then I-65, the warmer the weather became. I had to stop and de-gear
layers twice and at one point would have been comfortable in my favorite summer riding gloves (which are
collecting dust in my garage). The last 75 miles before arriving the stamp location was mostly on
state route roads and included too many stop lights and traffic tie-ups for someone on a very tight
schedule. Then there was a very long funeral procession. Southern tradition as I know it is
all vehicles pull to the side until the entire procession has passed. Anything less is simply
disrespectful. Funeral processions are obvious, but there are signs everywhere that scream, beckon,
offer: SEIZE THE JOURNEY...THERE IS ONLY SO MUCH TIME. Look at an old photograph then in the mirror
if you have any doubts.
As I approached the Pensacola Bay Bridge on US-98 the GPS said I had 3 minutes and 6 miles to my
destination. I was thinking surely these people don't lock the door RIGHT at 4:30. I arrived at 4:36pm,
barely got the kickstand down on the bike before making a dash for the door of the Visitor Center (my
surgically repaired Achilles did not appreciate this). The lights were off and the door was locked.
Crap! Six freakin' minutes? What is this, the government or something? Oh, yeah, it
is! Now, for the purposes of the Iron Butt's Master Traveler Award, of which I have already met the
requirements, if you are unable to obtain the actual stamp then you may substitute a photo taken of your
bike in front of the signage of the stamp location. For me, and the other Stamping addicts I know,
this simply will not suffice.. we must have the stamp! (That said, I do take a signage photo as a
backup in case my one and only Passport Stamp book becomes lost or destroyed). So, after riding 250
miles and being denied entrance, I walked around and stretched my legs, ate a banana, and made a few phone
calls. It was a few minutes before 5pm and I heard someone whistling from the side of the
building. Lo and behold it was a Ranger coming out a side door and carrying his jacket and
briefcase! I grabbed my book, ran over to him, then pleaded "Please, please, can I just stamp my
book?! I'm on my way back to Phoenix, I'm a fast stamper, it won't take long I promise!" He
smiled and said "I like your enthusiasm, c'mon in." YEE-HAW!!!!! Not only did I get the Gulf
Islands National Seashore stamp but there were 3 bonus stamps there as well! Double YEE-HAW!! Here's
a photo of Mike, the Ranger who saved my stamping day:
Part of the reasons I was delayed getting to the Visitor Center was due to congestion caused by a forest
fire (yes, forest fire by the beach). Given the scene and activity I witnessed I'm almost certain
it was a controlled burn. Still makes for a rather wild pic, huh?
I wanted to stop a take a photo of the "Welcome to Florida" sign but since I was struggling to make the
4:30 deadline I elected not to stop. By the time I left Gulf Breeze and the Pensacola area the sun
was setting and rush hour traffic snarls were rising so I didn't get the Florida sign photo... but I did
take a pic going back across the Pensacola Bay Bridge:
I rode another 120 miles with a warm, humid breeze and the smell of the ocean (dang I want to go fishing
again!) to Ocean Springs, MS where I am spending the night with friends. After the last week of snafu
weather delays, geez, does it ever feel good to be on the road again!
AGirl
Today's total: 655 miles, 7 Passport stamps
